But the really interesting scoop was the security at the airport here in Eilat. I have to go post more later.
Let you know how it goes later!
The bus ride was pretty uneventful I'd say. I guess I'm just used to seeing IDF soldiers carrying machine guns everywhere. We had three or four on the bus, headed for Eilat like us I suppose. It took about four and a half hours including a short pit stop at a gas station.
Once we were here we walked around the promenade for a bit and the other four took a quick dip into the water at the beach. We ended up at Aroma, a coffee shop, and I had iced chocolate, which was quite delicious and definitely hit the spot on this hot day.
For dinner we went to this Asian restaurant called Ginger. I had the yakisoba, which I found just ok. For dessert we had a "banana republic" which is bananas sautéed in caramel poured over a small cake with some ice cream on top. Sounds great right? Unfortunately, I'd have to give it just a 7/10. For some reason the flavors didn't really meld all that well. Or maybe I was still enjoying that iced chocolate from earlier that really hit the spot perfectly. In any case, I'm just at our hotel now heading to bed soon. Gotta wake up extra early to chat with Esther and then we head off to Petra at 7.25. Hopefully by this time tomorrow I'll be at the hotel in Tel Aviv (it's a day trip and we fly out of Eilat on a short domestic flight to Tel Aviv tomorrow night).
After that we drove into the West Bank again to go visit Jericho. It was very striking how poor the Palestinian territories are compared to the Israeli parts. Interestingly, we had to drive through another checkpoint before entering the city of Jericho, this one manned by the Palestinian police. Pointedly, after approving us, he distinctly said "welcome to Palestine".
We drove around for a little while looking for a place to eat and ended up at this restaurant called something like "The Jericho Hill Restaurant". It seemed kinda awkward to me because we were the only ones there and there was only one waiter and he didn't speak English very well. He gave all is us menus, but when we were trying to start ordering, he had to consult with the chef, after which we were informed that the only thing available to eat entree wise was chicken shwarma. So we got some small salad type things and some pitas and then shwarma, which was actually quite good. I'm sure they appreciated the business and afterward I was glad we gave it to them. They seemed to all be in it together, for when we ordered some fresh juice, the waiter went outside to tell his buddy to start squeezing us some juice, which was delivered in cups with some ice that was frozen into the bottom AND a bendy straw that had a little glitter streamer thing on it (picture to follow eventually if I got one of that). But overall, still an awkward meal in my mind.
Going into Jericho, it was really really hot (the irony will be evident later) and so we stayed long enough to look at the oldest discovered building in the world (pre pottery era I believe) and then we left and headed for Jerusalem. We got into Jerusalem with plenty of light left and time to walk around a bit, but also hungry. So Ariel and I went out to go to the ATM to get some money for dinner. What we didn't realize was that apparently Wednesday was the anniversary of the reunification of Jerusalem and there were throngs of people. Literally throngs. And they were all moving the opposite direction that we were trying to go. Plus there were police and Israeli Defense Forces out everywhere (more than a few on every block of the Muslim Quarter and additional ones in all the alleyways). And then we saw that every Arab shop we saw (basically the whole area) was closed, including the money changer and ATM. So we had to push through the crowds and walk out to the New City to get funds. It was still crazy when we went back to get the others for dinner. Sometimes the throngs would stop in the middle of the street, all waving flags, and start jumping and chanting things in Hebrew. We saw a fair amount of news media people there, so you could probably easily find some pictures in news articles, and I can upload some when I get a chance.
Had dinner in the New City at Cafe Hillel and I got the foccacia, which wad pretty good. The ironic part I mentioned earlier was that after we were all so hot we couldn't stand in the direct sun for more than a few minutes at a time, it started getting colder and colder in Jerusalem until during dinner we were all shivering in our light layers (we ate outside; why, I don't know). So after dinner we went to the same hot chocolate and waffles place I mentioned last week, Babette's. Still really good, I appreciated the warmth of the hot chocolate way more. I also got a waffle with cinnamon and cream cheese this time. Extra tasty.
Thursday
Thursday was a free day in Jerusalem and pretty relaxed for me. I didn't really want to do much, so after I woke up extra early to talk to Esther (6.30ish? But WELL worth it in my opinion =] ), I ate breakfast and then took a short nap. Then I went out and walked around the city for a while trying to get some souvenirs.
I had a couple bad experiences haggling to get the prices down (it's nothing like haggling in China...) and had a much better experience when I used what Aaron had told us (things are much more relational here, so you should chat with the shopkeepers) and just talked to one of the guys for a while. His name was Mohammed and he had gone to college at Hebrew University and studied engineering but had come back to sell goods at the stall because he enjoyed working for himself and wants to someday have his own business (I assume something trade-based related to his engineering background). It also helped that he had pretty good English.
After that while walking back to the hostel I ran into some others from our group who were headed to the best falafel place we had been to by the Damascus Gate in the Old City, so I went with them to grab a late lunch. So delicious!
After I got back I did some laundry and hung the clothes out on the clothesline they have at the hostel. I wasn't really expecting it, but the clothesline out in the sun with the breeze makes a huge difference. The clothes smell much more fresh and dry so much faster. While waiting for them to dry and waiting for dinner I took another nap and caught up on some emails and stuff. Then we went off to dinner.
Always an adventure, we headed into the New City for our last dinner as a big group. The place Aaron wanted to take us (which looked pretty high class) couldn't seat all of us for hours, so we went to a different place called Spaghettim. Once again we started out sitting outside but it was just too cold for everyone to handle so we ended up moving inside. I had a four cheese (goat, fresh feta, mozzarella, and gorgonzola!) pizza which was quite delicious (especially after I made it five cheese by adding parmesan). Walking home to the hostel afterwards was a bittersweet time - sweet because we were all together enjoying each others company and having fun but bitter because it was our last night together and our last night in Jerusalem.
I was also feeling kinda homesick after being away for two whole weeks from home and a big part of me wanted to come back with the others today. But here I sit in Eilat preparing to go see Petra in Jordan tomorrow.
After that we walked around and saw the harbor and where they had chariot races and stuff. Must have been the premiere resort destination way back in the first century day!
Then we drove up the coastline and through this one mountain pass and visited Tel Megiddo, where the ancient town of Megiddo once stood. Megiddo is a pretty cool place because of it's unique location. It's situated at the crossroads on the Carmel mountain range and multiple ancient highways pass through there. It's also the place mentioned in Revelation 16:16 when it says Armageddon. My understanding is that Armageddon comes from Khar Megiddo, or Mount Megiddo. So theoretically (with a literal interpretation) the armies of the world would gather where we were. Megiddo also had a cool tunnel that was carved for water storage that we walked through. There were 78 steps at the end of that tunnel even though the sign said there would be 80 steps (the sign was trying to help people determine if they should turn around or keep going). I remember that it was 78 because I counted it twice. After I reached the top someone dared me to go run back down to count them so I counted once on the way down and again on the way back up, running the whole time. Pretty good workout that was =].
After that we drove up to Mount Precipice, which is very close to Nazereth and overlooks the Jezreel Valley. We read Luke 4:14-21 where Jesus is in his hometown of Nazereth and they chase him up a cliff, possibly the very one we were on, or similar. The views up there were very striking, you could see all the way across the valley to Tel Megiddo. We also read Judges 4-5, where the Israelites gathered on Mount Tabor on one side of the valley and fought the Canaanited who were gathered on the other side. It was cool to overlook everything and think about the battle playing out in the valley. We also saw and talked to a Korean tour group up on the mountain.
Later that evening we went to our hostel in Tiberias which is on the Sea of Galilee and had dinner at a place that was only memorable to me for the really tasty roasted, pureed eggplant that I ate like hummus and the mint lemonade, which was very refreshing.
We went to this one place that my book recommended called Benedict, a 24 hour breakfast place! Breakfast is my favorite meal by far. The wait was pretty long, like 8 parties ahead of us, but it went quick. The menu also seemed kind of expensive, but it was so worth it. The eggs benedict that I had came with my choice of drink, which included a champagne cocktail as one of the possibilities! So I definitely got that.
After that we went on another adventure to find an ice cream place also recommended in my book. We went into central Tel Aviv and found the place, which was called Iceberg. The employees there were super nice an patient with us, even when one of us accidentally threw a dirty tasting spoon into the whole bowl of clean ones, the employee said no problem and just replaced the whole bowl. When one of the customers had brought a dog in from the heat, one of the other employees got a bowl of water and gave it to the dog! A++ for service; the ice cream was pretty good, too.
Then a few of us went walking along the beach, meandering our way back up to where our hostel was. We saw a nice marina and some sailboats and lots of people at the beach. We stopped at a nice little cafe and had some drinks and watched the Mediterranean Sea for a while. I had a Tuborg, which I thought was pretty good.
When we walked further up the boardwalk to the Tel Aviv port, we saw this street entertainer who was doing Chinese yo-yo! I was pretty shocked to see that and he wasn't all that great, either. Richard wondered if the crowd even knew it was a Chinese thing (he was talking in Hebrew so we couldn't tell what he was saying to the crowd.
For dinner that night we went to another late night favorite that my book suggested, a place called Moses' Burger Station. We had some great burgers, although it didn't seem like they really understood medium-rare. It was either going to be medium or it was going to be rare. I tried to tell the guy I wanted medium-rare and he seemed to understand, but it definitely came out on the rare side.
Later, after dinner, we walked down to this hummus place that was supposed to be really good and 6 of us shared a bowl of hummus while 2 others got a bowl each. The hummus was pretty darn tasty and when we ordered another pita, the owner dude walked by and non-chalantly tossed the pita from his standing hand height all the way to our wooden bowl on the table, making a loud "wham!" on the table and sending Richard into a bout of laughter at how indifferently the guy delivered the pita.
That's all the adventures for Saturday. I'll try to get Sunday and Monday up tomorrow so I can start catching up!
Once we got to the Dead Sea everyone jumped into the water in pure joy! Just kidding. You're actually not supposed to dive in or dunk your head or anything but float on your back, really. So you wade in past these rocks covered with salt (even underwater) and then sort of lie down on your back. We had a couple people who weren't going in take a bunch of pictures and videos for us. I have to say that at first I wasn't too psyched for the Dead Sea but it was pretty cool to experience once. Floating takes zero effort. It actually takes much more effort to try and keep your head up and sit up because everything tries to float including your legs and feet! So that was pretty neat for about ten minutes. Then I wanted to get out and then the bad aspects of the Dead Sea kicked in. Any part that was sunburned or had a cut started to burn as soon as I got out of the water. It was a good thing they had a fresh water shower right outside next to the water! After I rinsed off I took some more pictures and them went to the bathroom to change. Unfortunately for me, the bathrooms with showers and changing rooms cost 2 shekels to go in! Ridiculous! And because I had just brought my swimming trunks (rather than wearing them on the drive) the dip in the Dead Sea cost me 4 shekels. Like someone on the China tour a few years ago used to say, it's cheaper than a plane ticket back!
We ate lunch at this little restaurant/buffet right on the Dead Sea, which, I have to say, definitely exceeded my expectations! I had some slow cooked chicken and some salad.
Then we drove off to Masada, which is a fortress that was built up primarily under Herod (do you see a running theme here?) and is quite amazing. It's at the top of this huge mountain an has two or three aqueducts feeding into big cisterns for the water supply from nearby mountains. It also had three courtyards on the northern side for Herod himself (the top one) and for entertaining guests (the lower two). But things like that aren't enough for Herod, he had to go and put a big swimming pool up on top, too. It was so big that we had trouble exploring the whole site in an hour and a half.
There are two ways to the actual Masada mountain where the ruins are. One is by a tram that takes you up via cable car. The other is called the snake trail and, like its namesake, is a very winding trail all the way down. It's supposed to take about an hour going down and maybe twice that going up. But when we got there (around 1pm-ish) the staff told us it was too hot an they weren't letting anyone go up, only come down. So we took the tram up and I tried to explore the whole thing and ended up having to really book it to one end to see the views, but I got there so I was glad. After that we hiked down in about 40 minutes and man that was pretty tough going on my knees. Thankfully most of the way the trail is fairly wide and has railings. At the bottom everyone was tire and hot so we all got ice cream (Magnum bars!) even though they were pretty expensive compared to ones we've sen at convenience stores.
In fact, Magnum bars have become our de facto standard for determining how expensive ant given store is. "Ooh the Magnum bars are only 10 shekels here". Or "man what the heck they're 15 shekels at this place!"
After Masada we had a fairly long drive through the desert to get to our next stop, Tel Aviv. Once we got there and checked into the hostel and settled on we set off to find some good eats. We ended up at this place near our hostel called Jeremiah's, which was quite good. They were even playing American music the whole time we were there. Although it was pretty eclectic collection, cause I was the only one who knew what half the songs were.
After that we decided to get our laundry done even though it was getting late (almost 11ish?). There was a laundromat across the street that was open 24 hours, so we put our loads in and then walked around for a bit. Tel Aviv is a pretty cosmopolitan city and the area was actually livening up even more after 11. There was a young guy waiting at the crosswalk with us who asked where we were from in really good English. Turns out he was from LA but was in Israel for the time being doing his military service. He was training to be a paratrooper and said soon they all had to do a 75km hike with all their gear and stuff. Crazy! That's like 45 miles!
So after we were done with the wash and waiting for the drying to finish we were just hanging around outside the laundromat and started playing this game where you have a riddle and can only ask yes/no questions and you try to figure it out. It was fun for a while, but I had forgotten most of my good lateral thinking problems (someone remind me to look them up when I get home). Then we were all pretty tired so we went to bed. End of Friday!
After that we went to a Tel (which just means man-made hill because a city or fortification was destroyed and rebuilt so many times) near the Sorek Valley which overlooks Timnah and read Judges 14, the early years of Samson. It was cool to see the places that Samson went and killed a bunch of Philistines and totally destroyed their crops like in Judges 15. It was really cool because the actual wheat harvest had just been taken and so it made that passage that much more real.
After that we went to Tel Azekah, which overlooks the Elah Valley, and read through the David and Goliath story in 1 Samuel 17 and imagined the battle unfolding and thinking about where the people were and everything. Cool to see the actual places where these things happened.
Going back to Jerusalem that evening we ran into so much traffic and we also had a bunch of wrong turns. Craziness of Israeli drivers, case in point: we went into a parking lot that was very full with only one entrance and some cars parked along the way in/out, so there was space for only one car. The only problem? We couldn't get out because other cars kept trying to come in but nobody could turn around because all of the spaces were blocked. I felt like I was in that game Gridlock where you have to move the cars around to get the one out. And THEN, the car just behind us pulls over and PARKS in the traffic lane and the guy just gets out of his car to sit there and wait. You're not doing the rest of us any favors, buddy! So finally one of our guys got out and had to try and direct cars I back out and move all around until we could finally get out. 20+ minutes gone because of one wrong turn and a buildup of cars.
So we finally get back and want to have dinner but by this time the only places that are open are in West Jerusalem (much more liberal than the Old City). So we walk a half hour to get there and go to a restaurant Aaron recommends. I got this dish called shakshouqa which was really delicious - eggs poached in stewed tomatoes and sauce with some onions and cheese and stuff on top. Yum.
After that we went off to find the hot chocolate place that also sold Belgian waffles. I had a hot chocolate and a Belgian waffle with butterscotch on it. The waffle was really good and at first I thought the hot chocolate was just ok but then I realized as it was cooling down that it was a lot better than I originally thought. It didn't have a much mouth coating chocolate and wasn't nauseatingly rich like Burdick's but it went down smooth and still was awesomely chocolatey. Also, the people at that place seemed really nice.
Unfortunately, by the time all this happened it was like 10.15 and the convent/hostel where we are staying has an 11pm curfew. So we high tailed it back to the Old City and our hostel and got there around 10.45. But then nobody answered the doorbell for a little while so I was kinda scared that we had been locked out. But then the door opened for us and we were fine. But then because it was such a long day we had to have a discussion about what to cut from the next day that was supposed to have been another long day. Man, that made it even longer of a day and I was pretty exhausted already. We decided to try and get an early start and finish the discussion in the morning.
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| trying it out for now |
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| eggs benedict with bacon at this awesome restaurant called benedict - open 24/7! |
So yesterday I shaved, but not my entire face. Which part(s) do you think I shaved and which part(s) do you think I left?
We parked not far from the checkpoint and walked a ways in the hot sun along roads until we got to Manger Square. The Church of the Nativity is right there - supposedly the oldest church on the planet, built by Constantine. At the entrance is a really small door that you have to stoop down to enter. Legend has it that this forces everyone who enters the church to humble themselves, but Pastor Aaron said that it's more likely that it was for defensive reasons. The inside was pretty nice looking and had some nice mosaics and paintings on the floor and columns. The worst part was waiting in this line that was not very well organized. We were going under the church to this little cave where Jesus was thought to have been born which was closed when we got there for a monk service. We were standing in front of this one tour group from what sounded like Eastern Europe somewhere and they were very pushy and kept trying to push us forward even though nobody had any room. Finally one of the guys in our group made a joke about eating beans and having personal space to which a few of us laughed out loud. This actually caused a huge commotion because the Palestinian authority dude standing near the line yelled at us and told us not to laugh because it was a holy place. I found this pretty interesting. It's a holy place and yet everyone around there seemed to not be treating other people with respect. I talked to Aaron about it and he said that Eastern European religious culture focuses on objects and places in their worship a lot, which is very different from the way we do things. To me the little cave under the church is a cool historical place to see but ultimately it's just a cave. But it seemed as though it was a lot more to the other tour group - something to help them become closer to God. I don't know if that is sinful or which way is the "right" way, but I do know that people should treat each other with respect and understanding. Of course, maybe in their country being pushy and having no personal space is completely normal. So I guess I'll extend some grace to them, too. We all got to see the cave in the end.
After that we went to a place called the Herodian, which was a palace and fortress for King Herod the Great, who is known for his egomania and massive building projects. The name probably sounds familiar because he was the Roman governor in Israel when Jesus was born. It was cool to see this palace fortress and the great views of the whole region. We could see from this vantage point the different ridge routes and that you could farm in the valleys on the western side of the Dead Sea but the hills were only good for shepherding.
After that we left the West Bank and drove through some wilderness (more like desert) parts of Israel and came to a neat place called the Wadi Qelt. This is a small valley where all the water flows when it rains so it's literally a strip of oasis with trees and stuff amidst the desert. We hiked down a ways and looked at it from the desert and then read Psalm 23. Powerful stuff, especially in the desert wilderness.
That evening we went again to the Western Wall but this time we were going to see the tunnels they had excavated underneath the wall, down to where the original walkway was. Apparently the Temple Mount was built high up in the mountain top but then when Jerusalem was destroyed and rebuilt they built top of the old stuff with arches so the wall looks a lot less tall now than it originally did. Our tour guide was really cool and funny. And there was the best moving model of the Temple Mount that he used to explain where we were and where that would have been historically. A couple of highlights: getting my picture with these first century paving stones that when they excavated they found them sitting there near the end of the pavement as if a war had started and they were just left there and the pavement was left unfinished. Also when the guide was explaining how they found one of the original entrances that the priests used to walk up to the Temple Mount and someone asked why they didn't reopen it (since it was filled with stone now), he said "we could break it down but the Arabs would come". Funny stuff.
Sorry for not posting yesterday or today but we had super long days driving around an seeing various things in the surrounding areas near Jerusalem. I will hopefully post at least part of what we did tomorrow. But fear not! I am keeping a small, detailed journal of all the things we are doing and seeing and will fill you in accordingly. Just as a small taste of things to come, tonight after dinner I went to a place that is advertised as the best hot chocolate in Israel (and possibly the world). Was it better than the hot chocolate place in Harvard square (whose name escapes me at the moment)? Do you even like the hot chocolate at that place (I don't I think it's too thick)? I think it starts with a "b". Discuss!
Will
Then we had some free time and so some of us had lunch near the Western Wall and then went up to the Temple Mount, where the Dome of the Rock is and where the Biblical Temple used to be. It was cool to think that at one time thousands of years ago, the very Presence of God dwelled in a temple that was at that very spot. The mosque that's currently there is also pretty nice looking, with its roof that's plated with gold. But after we had been there for about an hour some official looking guys told us to leave and that it was "over" or something and when I tried to ask what was going on the guy said there was a service soon or something. So then we came back to the hostel for a bit to rest and then went out to the markets to eat some bakery items and see about some nice sandals. The bakery stuff was interesting but I didn't really know what it was and I didn't really like the way the sandals looked so I'm going to wait a while and see what I see.
After that we just came back to the hostel and played some cards while waiting for dinner. Dinner was again a delicious three course meal with soup, an entree with some beef and pasta and veggies, and a dessert with some melons and a peach slice. Thinking bout going to bed after I shower soon (it's 8.30 right now).
Negative #2: I got a bloody nose today. But understandable because it's so dry and hot here.
I'll end this on a super positive note: I got to talk to Esther today over skype! It was really good to hear her voice, so I'm really happy now.
After that we went to the western wall of the temple mount, also known as the wailing wall because of all the prayers there. It was cool to see a Bar Mitzfah going on while we were there. It was also really interesting how all people were required to "dress modestly" which included men who didn't have a head covering putting on a yamakuh (sp?). I got a picture of Pastor Aaron wearing one =]. Then completely randomly we saw another couple from Highrock that was there touring with a different church from California that they had a connection to! Small (ancient) world!
After that we walked around the old city some more and went to the Church of the Holy Sepulcher where Jesus was crucified and buried. It had a very reverent feel to it and it was really cool to see the actual place where Jesus was crucified but it was nothing like I had imagined. Constantine (I think) had the church built on top of this place and it is very large and very decadent. But the thing that I was struck by the most was that it seemed as though a lot of people here were worshipping the place and te objects because they consider them holy, which I can understand. But I was definitely feeling like God is not in these rocks and nothing we build to commemorate these holy places can compare to His Glory. The whole reason Jesus came was so that God could bridge the divide and live with and in us. So God is with me and I didn't feel especially close to Him at any of these places in particular, which I guess is a good and bad thing.
Then we came back to the Ecce Homo Convent where we are staying and had dinner. Three course meal with poached pears for dessert! Yum. Time for sleep soon I think. Oh, also, I don't feel in danger at all. People just living there lives normally around here with the addition of hordes of tourists. Also, I've seen a few Israeli soldiers on the streets with their machine guns slung on their backs so I feel even safer. =]
-Will
Man the flights were long and I couldn't really sleep because the (random) people next to me took up the armrest and didn't allow me some personal space. At least I caught up on my movies! I'm hoping to just crash tonight (it's 7pm right now anyway) and then wakeup ready to go tomorrow.
